Dr Cucumber
31-05-2008, 11:33 AM
Hi all,
this is a question for everyone, but the question is really directed at Paul (Oberin). Paul, I've read with interest your section on hand tuning skis on the Hotham website. The relevant section is included below:
'De-tuning the tip and tail of a modern carve shaped ski is quite different to the old straight skis. If you placed both skis together base to base they should touch each other at the widest point at the tip and tail, if they don't the skis are bent. Using your fine diamond file (or you can use a rubber dressing block or very fine wet and dry sandpaper), dull of the sharp edge from the tip to around 20mm past the contact point toward the bindings, and from the tail to around 10mm past the contact point towards the bindings. By dulling the edges off a little further the skis will be slightly more user friendly but the edge hold will not be as good.....'
My question relates to the following: I've just had my Fischer RX8 side and base edges beveled to 3 and 1 degrees respectively. However, on inspecting the edges, the technician appears to have de-tuned the edges to around 40mm below the contact point (tip end) and around 20-30mm from the contact point (tail end) :eek: . Having read your article, this should make the ski 'more user friendly'; however, I now wonder whether this will reduce performance to the point where the edges will start to slip? Is this likely to be the case in most conditions, or typically only in icy conditions? Please let me know if you think I should get the technician to sharpen the edges again? - this time to only 20 and 10 mm beyond the tip and tail contact points respectively.
Also, can you please clarify what you mean by 'more user friendly'?
Other relevant info that might help:
Ski length: 165cm
My height: 163 cm
Weight: 72kg
Skiing ability: Level 7->8
Any advice appreciated smile.gif
Dr Cuc
this is a question for everyone, but the question is really directed at Paul (Oberin). Paul, I've read with interest your section on hand tuning skis on the Hotham website. The relevant section is included below:
'De-tuning the tip and tail of a modern carve shaped ski is quite different to the old straight skis. If you placed both skis together base to base they should touch each other at the widest point at the tip and tail, if they don't the skis are bent. Using your fine diamond file (or you can use a rubber dressing block or very fine wet and dry sandpaper), dull of the sharp edge from the tip to around 20mm past the contact point toward the bindings, and from the tail to around 10mm past the contact point towards the bindings. By dulling the edges off a little further the skis will be slightly more user friendly but the edge hold will not be as good.....'
My question relates to the following: I've just had my Fischer RX8 side and base edges beveled to 3 and 1 degrees respectively. However, on inspecting the edges, the technician appears to have de-tuned the edges to around 40mm below the contact point (tip end) and around 20-30mm from the contact point (tail end) :eek: . Having read your article, this should make the ski 'more user friendly'; however, I now wonder whether this will reduce performance to the point where the edges will start to slip? Is this likely to be the case in most conditions, or typically only in icy conditions? Please let me know if you think I should get the technician to sharpen the edges again? - this time to only 20 and 10 mm beyond the tip and tail contact points respectively.
Also, can you please clarify what you mean by 'more user friendly'?
Other relevant info that might help:
Ski length: 165cm
My height: 163 cm
Weight: 72kg
Skiing ability: Level 7->8
Any advice appreciated smile.gif
Dr Cuc